Setting up Moveable Chicken Electric Fence

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Hi, I’m Daniel from Chicken Caravan. Today I want to show you the Electric Chicken Fence. This product is made in Germany, and very good quality. It’s a movable electric Chicken Fence: it keeps your chickens in and it keeps the dogs, foxes and dingos out. Today I’m going to show you how to prepare the ground, to set it up effectively, how to hook it up to an energizer and test the fence to make sure it’s running enough current to keep the predators out and away from your chickens. Now we’ll head out to the paddock and I’ll show you how to set them up. Okay, the first step is to prepare the ground.

Work out where you are going to put your chicken fence, and if the grass is a little bit long, just mow a strip. So today I’m going to set up two fences, and we are going to create the square that’s 25 meters by 25 meters. So I’ve worked out where I want to put my fence, now just mow where I’m going to put it down. Once you got the fence, just take it out of the bag. When your fence is on the ground, just undo the strings. When you have untied the strings, just pick it up and let the net dangle down.

Grab your first post, and then you just drop it onto the ground. So we are gonna start with putting our first post in here. The posts have two strong metal prongs on the bottoms, so you just put that where you want to start, and you can just simply push that in with your foot. Once you got your first post in, you can just pick up all the posts and the roll and then just walk backwards, just dropping off the next post in line. Once you have stretched your fence out, all you do is walk back along, and then pull it reasonably tight and then tred all your posts in. Okay, we’ve now stood all the fences up and this is where the fences join. When the fence comes, it already comes with strings on it that hold the bundle together.

These become handy now because they can tie your fences together. Just use whatever knot you’re comfortable with just to tie them up. So the fences are now stood up, they are tied together and at the ends of the fence you got a central loom so you just clip those two metal ends together and then, the electricity coming through one it will then keeps sending it down the other lines. So sometimes at your corners, you will find that the ends pull in. This today is pretty good, but if your ground is a bit soft, you might found the fences are pulling in a bit. So you just get an extra bit of string, and just tie it around the top and then we can just get a star post. And I’ll pull that out.

So I hammered the star post in. Because the star post is metal, you want it a good distance away from your fence: you don’t want it right up against the post because then the fence will short out on it and you won’t have much electricity running through. So we can just tie that string back to the post and then make sure that the fence is standing up right and it’s nice and tight. So now we got the fence set up, I’ll just show you some of the features of the fence. So we got a steel spike in the ground there and that bottom wire that you can see that’s black, that’s not electrified, so that’s right to sit on the grass, sit on the ground. The next one up, that’s your first live wire. So you want to keep the grass off that. It’s okay when a little bit hits it, but if you got long grass, I recommend you mow it like we’ve done here, just so that one is not shorting out. And then you just go up, and all the horizontal wires are live wires and your verticals are not live.

So there’s small squares down the bottom and then they get gradually bigger as you get right to the top. When you do set up your fence, just want to ensure non of this live wires are under your metal foot peg because if your live wires touching the metal foot peg, it will be shorting out and you wont get much conductivity. The black ones are to sit on the ground, the white ones not. Your fence comes with a repair kit, so any of your horizontal or vertical wires, if they do break, there’s spare wire in there, and also clips to attach them. There’s spare top pegs for your posts and also spare bottom clips for your bottom post so that comes in your repair kit.

Right, so we’ve got the nets all rolled out, they’re standing up, we’ve got all the ends connected together. The next point is make the fences live, so I’ve got Mike here from Gallagher Australia, he has had over thirty years of experience in electric fencing, and he is gonna show us how to successfully hook electricity up to it.

Thanks for being here today Mike! Mike: My pleasure Daniel. Daniel: Right, so at the corner here, we’ve got the electric fences are connected, so everything of the loop is now connected. I’ve got my corner post here, just pulling the fence out nice and tight. I want to put the Gallagher S50 on top of here, Can you just explain how that will work? Mike: Yes, for sure okay. But look, before we mount that up on top, ideally when people buy this units, we advise them to fully charge the battery for at least three days.

It takes three days sitting on the sun to give that battery a full load of charge. That done, the battery will last for a long, long time. We are going to get five or six years life utile to the battery. But it’s important to charge it properly the first time. When you connect the terminals on to the battery, the leads on the battery terminals, put a little bit of Vaseline there, just to stop any corrosion: it may happen with time. As you know, it happens with battery connections, it can get a bit of corrosion build up there. So that will minimize any potential issues down the track as well.

Okay, so assuming we’ve got the energizer charged which we have, with this one. This is an all in one unit: this is the solar panel, battery contained in the compartment in the back here, and energizer there as well. So this is an all in one unit, ready to roll. And we have driven this post in, in a position will allow us to put the solar panel to the north: north is were we gonna get optimum sun light here at Australia, so we want to have it in that point, in that direction. It simply got a little socket in the back which allows us to mount that onto our steel post. And just slides down over the top of it and away we go. Make sure it’s galvanized, galvanizes stakes don’t rust, rust is an insulator you won’t get a circuit back through old black steel post. So make sure they are galvanized. We simply then have an earth connection that connects on to our earth stake and the live connection, connects to our fence on to our live plate there, The fence is now hooked up.

Okay, so now we’ve got the unit all hooked up, live and earth connected appropriately. We now simply turn the energizer on and light here indicating that’s flashing away and working. We then test the fence, earth probe into the ground live probe of voltmeter on the live side of the fence here, and we are getting 6500 volts, so that’s a good effective fence it’s going to keep all the chickens under control, it’s also going to stop any predator: dogs, cats, foxes, that type of thing, from hassling the chickens. Daniel: We recommend the Gallagher S50 for 1 chicken fence, the Gallagher B180 for 1 to 3 chicken fences, the Gallagher B280 for 1 to 5 chicken fences, and the Gallagher B700 for 1 to 10 chicken fences.

Mike: Okay, this is another fence monitoring device we have available, it’s called a Live Fence Indicator it actually stays on the fence full time the idea being that it’s powered by the fence, it doesn’t have a separate battery source it hangs on the fence and flashes on and off with every pulse of the energizer provided that we have over 2000 volts: 2000 volts we considered it to be a pretty effective electric fence system. So, at a glance, you can monitor what´s happening on your fence system they can be seen for over a kilometer away, over night time this haves a system of red LED lights so even daytime is quite visible.

This is very simple to install, it simply got an earth probe and a live connection here, we push out the probe into the ground, and the live connector just allows us to clamp onto the fence. And it will flash on and off for each pulse for the unit, when we turn the unit on. Okay, so a voltmeter is a fairly essential part of any fence system, is important to be able to check your fence voltages occasionally. I like to check the fence once a week if possible. And the ideal way to do it is with a digital voltmeter, digital voltmeters read in kilowatts, so one kilowatt is a thousand volts: if the fence was ready in let’s say, well that’s 7200 volts. Now, in an ideal world I like to see fences working somewhere in excess of about 3000 volts, that’s pretty stock for most animals, if you are dealing with feral animals trying to keep foxes and that kind of thing out possibly, you might like to get a little bit more probably more than 5000 volts to really get an effective result on those animals.

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